A Loop through the North

We headed up the east coast to catch up with friends at Kaikoura. A walk along the shore showed how the shoreline has changed when it was lifted by a metre in the 2016 earthquake. We continued to the north west past the vast vineyards in the Marlborough region and across to the Cobb Valley from where we set out on an overnight walk.

We started under clear skies but the cloud quickly rolled in and we completed the day’s walk past the atmospheric Lake Peel in fog. It lifted for a moment and we were pleased to see the hut appear. We were dismayed to arrive and find that there was no longer gas supplied to the hut so we had to light the stove. It did an excellent job of heating water but it also heated the hut which we didn’t need. A family arrived in the late afternoon and shared their gas stove with us so we didn’t have to warm up the hut. We decided to head out the next day and were pleased to have beautiful weather with the bonus of fog in the valley.

We made for the west coast to revisit Wharariki Beach with the attractions of sand dunes, photogenic islands, caves and seals.

It was then time to start back southwards and after a night near Nelson Lakes where we were swarmed by sandflies it was good to head up to Arthur’s Pass where the shelter ensured we could hide from the much reduced numbers. After visiting the spectacular waterfalls we headed inland. I was hoping to walk through Cave Stream but as I waded in and it quickly became apparent the cold water was going to be at least waist deep I chickened out and we just visited both ends of the cave.

Staying at Lake Tekapo gave me the opportunity to photograph the lake and famous Church of the Good Shepherd in pleasing light though I couldn’t escape the crowds.

We then moved on to Mt Cook where we set out on the Hooker Lake walk in good weather. Unfortunately as we headed up the valley it started to haze over and we soon realised we were once again under smoke from the Australian fires. With rain in the evening it cleared for a clearer view in the morning. We also had our closest encounter with keas as they had a lovely time trying to pull an awning to pieces.

One last night at Arrowtown and a stop to watch the drama of the Shotover jets and we were on the plane back home.

Walking down south

After the other visitors had left us we picked up a small camper and were free to camp as we pleased. I finally got to stop and photograph some picturesque ruins I had spotted on our numerous trips up and down Lake Wakatipu then headed for Mavorra Lakes, a locals’ paradise, and we soon found out why. There were two lakes with a river between and lots of beautiful scenery.

Mavorra river

On our way to the Divide to begin our walk into Howden Hut where our daughter is the summer ranger, we stopped to enjoy the scenery along the Milford Rd. A rainbow showed off the end of the showers and the many places to pull into along the road provided lots of varied scenery, mossy forests and reflected mountains.

Lake Te Anau

Mirror Lakes

Cascade creek

Lake Gunn

It was a misty walk into Howden Hut which showed off the mossy forest to perfection. As the weather cleared in the evening Jess and I ducked up to Key Summit so she could clean the toilet and make sure the puddles were draining properly. It was my first visit of three over our stay, seeing the panorama in different light every time.

Key Summit

Kea

Rather than make the trip along the Routeburn Track on our day trip which we had walked before, we headed off along the Caples Track to Lake Mackellar and then up a well-made, gentle track to Mackellar Saddle. Back at Howden Hut we enjoyed the changing light over the lake as the sun lowered.

Mt Christina

Mackellar Saddle

Howden Hut

Lake Howden

Lake Howden

With the clear skies, Jessica and I headed for Key summit for sunrise and were well rewarded. As Ray and I walked out we also headed up and I saw it in full sun with blue skies – the postcard shots.

Five days after we left New Zealand Fiordland had a massive flood that knocked out roads and stranded many people. Howden Hut was hit by a landslide in the middle of the night but luckily there were no major injuries to the 32 people at the hut though the hut is written off. Jessica was not on duty and has now been relocated to repairing infrastructure on the Milford road. Here is an article about the ordeal.

We joined Jessica, who now had 6 days off, at Wanaka and walked into Aspiring Hut while her husband was on a canyoning course. It was an easy walk through farmland to the hut but the heat and lack of shade made it seem longer. Unfortunately the side trip to the impressive Rob Roy glacier was closed so we just had to peer through the gap.

Wishbone falls

Wishbone falls

Matukituki river

Rob Roy glacier

Matukituki valley

Aspiring hut

We had two days to explore so we chose the easy options while Jessica climbed high. While we walked to the head of the valley she climbed 1000m to French Ridge Hut and then once back in the valley ducked up to Liverpool Hut, only 600m higher. It was our turn to climb the next day as we headed up to the tree line on the Cascade Saddle track. Naturally Jessica climbed all the way to the saddle!

Liverpool bridge

Aspiring Hut

From the Cascade Saddle track

 

Fin

We finished walking and  headed towards Christchurch to dispose of our van and fly home sooner than we expected. We passed by Maruia Falls, created by an earthquake in 1929 that caused a landslide which filled the river channel so the river was forced to find a new way. We briefly stopped at Hanmer Springs and then carried on down to the coast.

Maruia falls

Maruia falls

We placed our ad on the internet and then diverted to Banks Peninsula to drive out to Akaroa, a small touristy village with a huge cruise ship in the harbour. We mingled with the tourists who were being ferried ashore in the lifeboats to wander the street or join a variety of tours. We sat on a seat by a cricket match to enjoy  our lunch where Ray scored a duck in his lap trying to join the feast. He then almost got taken out by a cricket ball but the wicketkeeeper was more worried it was going to hit the ducks.

We stayed in a campsite by the beach  and then returned to Christchurch to find we had replies to our ad. We ended up spending a week in Christchurch as the first buyer wanted an AA check and that took time. The deal then fell through as he wasn’t happy with what was found so we moved on to the next interested person and had it finalized after two days. Meanwhile we visited the ghost town that is central Christchurch. We were surprised that after four years not much has happened. There are lots of empty spaces and new buildings are beginning so builders are the main people there. Most of the buildings still standing were fenced off and empty. It was sad to see the cathedral minus its bell tower and front while they debate starting again or restoring. However there’s an interesting temporary (could last 50 years!) cardboard cathedral (only some of the fittings are made out of cardboard, not the structure.) At least the Botanic gardens were still full of people.

Okains Bay

Okains Bay by moonlight

Lyttelton Harbour

The Cathedral

Fenced in and abandoned buildings

Inside the cardboard cathedral

The cardboard cathedral

Avon river bridge

Punting through the Botanic gardens

Punting through the Botanic gardens

It then just remained to fly home leaving drizzly Christchurch where the mountains were the only places escaping the all enveloping cloud and return to sunny Australia.

Nelson Lakes

We  returned to Nelson Lakes after bypassing it early in our trip due to heavy snow on the mountains. We came down from Arthurs Pass and visited Carew Falls near Lake Brunner. A huge storm had gone through in Easter bringing down vast swathes of trees and the track was still not officially open but it was cleared enough for us to get through easily.

Carew Falls

Rural scene

We detoured from our path to visit the famous Hawks Crag in the Buller Gorge. It’s a tight fit for trucks and buses.

We arrived at Nelson Lakes to find there was still snow on the high passes but Ray still wanted to do a walk so we decided to walk in and out to Blue Lake. We thought we had found a beautiful, previously unseen NZ bird but it turned out to be somebodies abandoned pet – a Mandarin duck – very striking and unable to breed with the local birds.

Our first day turned out to be hut too far. We walked to Speargrass Hut on a rough track with lots of tree roots to carefully clamber over and a half hour steep flood detour so we arrived after three and half hours. After lunch it was then another five hours to the next hut (we took five and a half) with lots more roots, two large detours around areas where huge areas of trees had been brought down by the Easter storm and a tricky climb down to lake level. We arrived exhausted at 6.30.

Speargrass Hut

The bit they had cut through. The rest was detoured around.

We thought we had an easy day the next day – five hours and 13 km up the Sabine River. It drizzled most of the day and we ended wet and cold, the streams needed fording so our feet were soaked and we took six and a half hours. The hut was very welcome and Ray got the fire going so we could dry off. The next day was a short trip to Blue Lake but when we set off again in the rain, we found the  side streams quite high and lots of them so decided to retreat to the hut. During the afternoon a group from Auckland Uni arrived up the Sabine river track having waded through waist deep streams. After a break they continued on to Blue Lake. We are not that gung ho! (No pictures – too wet!)

The rain finally stopped and we set off for Blue Lake in the sunshine on our fourth day. The river and streams had all dropped and were easily forded though I would hate to have gone through some on the previous day. We had to cross a large snow bank that half crossed the river but luckily it was easily traversed. Blue Lake was just reward for our efforts, shining bluely in the sunshine with the clearest fresh water in the world (scientifically proven). We climbed up to look at Lake Constance above.

The side stream that stopped us

Crossing the snow bank

Blue Lake

Blue Lake

Blue Lake

Lake Constance

Blue Lake

Blue Lake

Blue Lake

Blue Lake

We strolled back down to West Sabine Hut enjoying the sunshine and the views.

The snow bakn

West Sabine river

West Sabine river

West Sabine river

A side stream that would have been dangerous in flood

West Sabine river

West Sabine river

West Sabine hut

Heading back down the Sabine River without the rain was much easier so we covered the ground more quickly and enjoyed the walk. Neither of us were looking forward to the walk back to the car so we accepted an invitation from the uni students to join them on the boat ride down the lake and they would give us a ride back to our car. We had to pick up half of their group from a hut on the other side of the lake where they had joined a hunter whose prowess was on display.

Falls on side stream

Falls on side stream

Lake Rotoroa

Lake Rotoroa

Deer carcass

We still wanted to walk to Angelus Hut but the weather was turning again so we decided to retreat for a while and return in the sunshine. After admiring the huge eels that lived under the jetty at Lake Rotoiti we headed north to Motueka. A DOC pamphlet introduced us to the Cobb valley area and we decided to head there. We followed a hydro road up to a manmade reservoir high in the mountains. We camped beside the river and took a day walk to Lake Peel, a lake in a dramatically carved, glacial valley. We then walked to Sylvester Hut, only five km but taking us up to 1300m where we had patches of sunshine and blasts of snow.  I  lost Ray there as he managed to walk past the hut which was 50m off the track and he had his head down as it was snowing.

Eels

Eels

Cobb power station

Cobb reservoir

Cobb Valley

Mytton Hut, an historic hut but we didn’t stay in it.

Lake Peel

Lake Peel

Lake Sylvester

Lake Sylvester

We arrived back at Lake Rotoiti to forecasts of sunshine for two days – long enough to get to Angelus Hut and back. We had to return along the ridge as the valley was closed for helicopter drops of poisoned baits. We climbed the zigzag path that took us above the tree line. From there we walked along a narrowing ridge as the scenery got more and more amazing and dramatic. We had to sidle some parts and gradually had more snow to deal with though it was all soft. When we thought it couldn’t get any better we dropped down to Angelus Hut, nestled beside two lakes and ringed by dappled snowscapes.

Lake Rotoiti

Lake Rotoiti

The fog rolled in before sunset but cleared during the night for me to creep out and take pre-dawn and sunrise photos. The clear skies meant that the snow froze so we had to take it very carefully until the sun melted it. Luckily there were footprints  frozen into the snow to make it safer and there was a lot less snow on our return along the ridge. One part had us sidling belong a rocky ridge above a steep snow slope and we were very pleased to be across it safely. It was then a pleasant return tramp on one of our most dramatic walks.

The steep side slope though it never looks as bad in a photo.

Scree slope

Lichen

The Southern Alps

Mt Aspiring NP

We arrived back at Wanaka with good weather for our walk to Aspiring Hut. We camped at the start of the walk and were treated to the sight of the full moon rising above the mountains and then a lovely sunrise the following morning. It was a nice gentle nine kilometre stroll through farmland beside the West Matukituki River with lambs gambolling and mountains rearing their snow topped peaks above. We planned to climb a ridge for views the next day so we ducked up another one on the afternoon we arrived. After two hard hours uphill we popped out of the trees to find a magnificent view spread around us. We could see up and down the valley and at the head was the sight of Mt Aspiring flanked by other mighty mountains. The next day turned out to be cloudy so we just took a short stroll to a waterfall with a snowbank beneath it. The warden told us we’d had the best view anyway.

Full moon rising

Full moon rising

View from Aspiring Hut

Mountain stream

Mt Aspiring

Up and down West Matikituki valley

View point on Cascade Saddle track

Mt Aspiring

Waterfall and ice cave

Ice cave

Looking out from the ice cave

We stopped off at the clay cliffs at Omarama on the way to Mt Cook and explored this naturally occurring eroded landscape.

Lindis Pass

Lupins

Clay Cliffs

Clay Cliffs

As we approached Mt Cook the weather was clear so we decided we had better do the best walk that afternoon. This was the day walk up the Hooker valley crossing three swing bridges and ending at Hooker Lake, below Hooker Glacier. We had the bonus of numerous icebergs in the lake and ice washed up onto the shore. The weather stayed clear for sunset but clouds started to roll in the next morning as we climbed to Red Tarn.

Road to Mt Cook

Lenticular clouds

Mt Sefton

Mt Cook and buttercup

Hooker Lake

Hooker Lake

Paradise duck and ducklings

Mt Cook

Red Tarn

With the weather turning we left Mt Cook and headed north via Lake Tekapo and the popular Church of the Good Shepherd where we competed with busloads of tourists for the best photo vantage points.

Lake Pukaki

Lake Tekapo

Lake Tekapo

We arrived at Mt Somers and packed for a three day walk on the roadside. We arranged to be dropped at the start of the walk. The first day we climbed up beside  Woolshed creek which became more and more gorge like as we ascended. We ended at the hut surrounded by rocky peaks and impressive canyons which we had leisure to explore after our five kilometre walk.

Woolshed Hut

We explored the water caves the next morning which was just an area where the creek went under big boulders. It was then a climb up to a pass with views of the mountains. We sidled around the valley to the next hut perched on the mountain side with The Pinnacles, a magnet for rock climbers, above us. We had the fire going and stayed cosy and warm as it started snowing outside to our excitement. It turned the scenery into a wonderland though it quickly started melting once it stopped snowing.

Another snowfall before dark meant we had a good covering in the morning and we walked carefully until we dropped below the snow. This day was the hardest despite again only walking six kilometres. Once we dropped down beside the river we were clambering up and down over rocks, roots and ridges and our pace was slow. We were pleased to arrive at the tourist path to Sharplin Falls and an easy end to the walk.

Sunrise at The Pinnacles Hut

The Pinnacles Hut

The Pinnacles Hut

Sharplin Falls

Sharplin Falls

Mt Somers

We were aiming for Arthur’s Pass but made a number of stops along the way. First was the Raikaia River,  blue water between white cliffs. Castle Hill is an area of limestone tors much loved by rock climbers but also an attraction for tourists. We walked around admiring the rocks until a fire started and smoke drifted across. We thought it was planned but when the fire brigade arrived realised it wasn’t. Finally we went to Cave Stream with intentions of wading through the hour long passage but when we met two wet adventurers who had been through in waist to chest deep freezing cold water and then found too much pouring down at the top so they had to return, we quickly abandoned our plans and just visited both ends.

Raikaia River

Raikaia River

Castle Hill

Castle Hill

Castle Hill

Castle Hill

Castle Hill

Castle Hill

Cave Stream exit

Cave Stream entrance

Cave Stream entrance

At Arthurs Pass we were disappointed to find high rivers put most of the walks out of our reach. There are few bridges here and tramps all ford streams. The only one within our abilities didn’t sound as interesting so we contented ourselves with climbing Avalanche Peak , just above the village.  We climbed above the trees but stopped soon after as we hit the fresh snow line. We were happy with the great view we received. Devils Punchbowl is an impressive waterfall. We headed on westwards crossing the Otira viaduct, built to bypass a tricky bit of road bedevilled by slips. At the lookout stop we were suprised to find a kea poking about under our car. As we saw what was in his beak and all the rubber seals scattered on the ground we quickly left before our car was disabled!

Southland

Purakaunui

Southland took us away from the mountains but still provided plenty of interest. We did our usual disappearing down caves and tunnels by visiting Clifden Caves. Unfortunately this one beat us. Ray didn’t like the squeeze and stopped. I went on but not all the way as we met people coming out who said it was too deep. We tried from the other end and climbed down a ladder where I could hear a waterfall but it got too tricky. Our trip through Tunnel Hill on an old railway line was much more sedate and successful.

The coast was very varied as we visited a picturesque harbour with baches ( New Zealand’s version of holiday houses), the graveyard for the obsolete boats from The Bluff oyster fleet, a petrified forest, a blowhole that was 200 metres inland and didn’t blow but the sea surged in impressively, a lighthouse on a rugged rocky point and lots of panoramic views.

Cosy Nook

Abandoned oyster fleet

Abandoned oyster fleet

The Bluff lookout

Petrified forest

Petrified forest

Petrified forest

Nugget Point lighthouse

Nugget Point

Jack’s blowhole

The Catlins is famed for its wildlife and the chance to encounter seals, sea-lions, penguins and dolphins up close. It didn’t disappoint as we stumbled on sea-lions on the beaches, saw seals frolicking in the water, spied yellow eyed penguins returning from the sea (though our close encounter with penguins had to wait until Moeraki) but missed out on Hector’s dolphins.

Waterfalls are the other famous feature of the Catlins and I wasn’t disappointed. We saw the well publicised and magnificent McLeans, New Zealands answer to Liffey Falls – Purakaunui, and lots of other less well publicised gems that sometimes took a bit of finding but were worth the effort.

Mcleans

Mcleans

Purakaunui

Purakaunui

Matai

Purukuku

Waipohatu

As the bottom end of the island dips into the Roaring Forties the plant life has to adapt to the gales that regularly blow. We saw some very windswept trees down south.

Tunnel Beach near Dunedin has an interesting history. Apparently a fond father dug the tunnel down to the beach to give his daughter her own private place. Now it gives tourists a thrill and great scenery.

We then headed up to Dunedin where we toured  the town in the rain. The railway station was the standout with its grand architecture. We also visited the Otago Peninsula for more coastal walks.

I’ve always thought Moeraki Boulders looked fascinating and now I’ve finally seen them. We visited them in the drizzle and then I returned for a less than spectacular sunrise.

It was then back inland again as we made our way back to mountain country with a stop off at historic St Bathans, a ghost town now with a lake formed by the goldmining and surrounded by mountains with fresh snow. It even dropped more on us while walking around Blue Lake in the form of hail that turned the ground white.

Mountains and Lakes

Sunset from Kinloch

We moved from the west coast to the southern lakes area where there are lakes galore surrounded by high, snow-capped mountains. Everyone says this is a highlight of New Zealand and everyone is right. We began at Wanaka, a quiet town on a large lake ringed by mountains providing great opportunities for dramatic sunsets and sunrises.

Lake Hawea

Sunset over Lake Wanaka

Sunrise over Lake Wanaka

Sunrise over Lake Wanaka

We took advantage of the good weather to venture further into the mountains, driving up the scenic Matukituki valley to the track to Rob Roy valley. We then followed up this valley across a landslip with a huge rock still hanging precariously above  to the point below the headwall where we could admire towering views of the glacier hanging above and dropping chunks of ice. Next to this was a high waterfall dropping metres straight down into the valley. We sat with the other walkers eating lunch and being amazed at the spectacle.

Rural scene

Matukituki Valley

Matukituki Valley

Walking under the hanging rock

Rob Roy valley

Avalanche from Rob Roy glacier

Rob Roy valley

Rob Roy glacier

Another day, another walk. This time we climbed a small hill for a panoramic 360 degree view of lake on one side and mountains on the other. Such a great reward for not too much effort. We moved across to Queenstown area, skipping quickly through the crowded tourist town to find a delightful campsite by a little lake ringed again by mountains. We took a walk that we had done previously with our children 10 years ago and enjoyed so much we repeated. It led to a little cabin  used by a miner and preserved as well as a delightful stream with a number of waterfalls.

360 degree view from Rocky Mountain

Lake Wanaka

Rural scene

SS Earnslaw

Moke Lake

Moke Lake

Twelve mile Ck

Twelve mile Ck

We drove down Lake Wakatipu and past Glenorchy to stay at Kinloch with a wonderful view of a dramatic sunset across the lake. We then took what could be our hardest day walk yet. It was only about 8km but we climbed over 1000m in that time. The track began by gently zigzagging and then decided it would never get to the top that way and straight up the side we went. Just when we were breathless, the trees abruptly stopped and we were scrambling up through grass, across scree and clambering up rocks to finally reach the ridge top. It was then a gentle amble to the high point apart from the screaming, ferocious wind that threatened to blow us off again. Was it worth it? Of course because we got the most fantastic view! The Rees and Dart valley on either side draining to Lake Wakatipu and snow covered mountains disappearing into the cloud at the other end.

Towards Glenorchy

Sunset from Kinloch

Sunset from Kinloch

Sunrise from Kinloch

Rural scene

View from Mt Alfred

View from Mt Alfred

View from Mt Alfred

We saw some different gold mining areas. Bannockburn was mined by sluicing away the alluvial gold leaving a denuded landscape reminiscent of Monument Valley and Bendigo was reef mining with vertical shafts all over the place including one monster that went down 200 metres. The miners used the rocks they dug out to build their houses, sometimes beautifully crafted without the use of mortar.

 

We found out that the Fiordland Great Walks could be walked before the end of October and we would only have to pay $15 a night instead of $54. We would have to do without flush toilets and gas cookers but we normally do without those things. There were also a couple of bridges removed from the Routeburn that were in avalanche paths but it was too good an opportunity to miss so we headed for Te Anau. We stopped to admire the brave or foolhardy people who were bungy jumping on the way and then took advantage of the many DOC campsites in the Eglinton Valley on the way to Milford Sound.

Cascade Creek

Cascade Creek

We were waiting for good weather to begin the walks and got a bonus of a beautiful day at Milford Sound. We drove in and enjoyed the perfect reflections but didn’t bother with a boat ride. We instead took a walk to a hanging lake perched in the mountains.

Lake Marian

We knew we had a miserable day to sit out before a good run of weather to begin the walk. Lake Gunn provided a contrast in moods from one day to the next.

Lake Gunn

Lake Gunn

Lake Gunn

We had a glorious day to begin our walk. We climbed up to Key Summit which gave us a view down into three different valleys and across to lots of different mountain ranges. We then sidled around one of the ranges underneath Earland Falls and dropped down to Lake Mackenzie, a beautiful green lake studded with moss covered rocks, ringed by forest and with unique mountains reflected in its calm surface.

Key Summit

Earland Falls

Lake Mackenzie

Lake Mackenzie

Lake Mackenzie

Lake Mackenzie

Mackenzie Hut

Another clear day greeted us for out big day climbing over the high point of the walk. We began by climbing up above the lake and then sidled high up the Hollyford valley side to Harris Saddle. This led to the large Lake Harris before we descended to the top of Routeburn Falls overlooking the steep drop to Routeburn Flats.

Lake Mackenzie

Lake Mackenzie

Traversing above Lake Mackenzie

Our track

Harris Saddle

Lake Harris

Looking down to Routeburn Flats

A red sky presaged a change in the weather. We rushed to get back across the pass before the rain and managed to make it back to Lake Mackenzie in time. We were heading back to overcome the 360km difference between the two ends of the walk. The cloudy and foggy weather caused a different focus on the close view and the alpine plants as the dramatic views of the previous day were hidden. Lake Mackenzie looked very different in the rain.

Lake Harris

Lake Mackenzie

Lake Mackenzie

The last day brought us better weather again and the surprise of ice at Earland Falls wherever the spray had hit.

We had a grand meal out in Te Anau, showers and washing and then set out again on the next day to walk the Kepler Track. Luckily the first day was very easy as we followed the river and then the lake shore through a beautiful beech forest, sometimes carpeted with moss and other times a sea of ferns.

Lake Manapouri

The second day saw us following a valley upstream through more forest and across side streams, often a path of destruction during rain storms. We came to a lovely hut on the edge of the forest and walked to where the burn tumbled over a cliff side.

Iris Burn Hut

Iris Burn Falls

View from hut

The next day was the high point of the trip, literally and figuratively. We climbed up through the forest to an icy ridge and then climbed it on a series of steps before we continued along the tops with our track sidling the high peaks but giving us glorious views. The snow covered mountains gradually emerged from cloud and we could see an arm of Lake Te Anau far below. The alpine plants were beautiful and even the toilet at the shelter had a grand  view.

We arrived at the hut that was perched on the tussock covered hills with a superb view and windows to take advantage of it. A side trip took us to Luxmore Cave and a visit from a clowning kea capped off the day.

Luxmore Cave

Sunset from the hut

The sunrise was beyond beautiful with the valley below being filled with cloud and the golden grasses gradually coming alive in the morning sun, all overseen by snowy peaks. It was a shame to leave but the weather forecast promised change and we hoped to be off the mountain before then. We steadily zigzagged down past the limestone cliffs to arrive at a serene Lake Te Anau. The afternoon rain cause it to lose its placidity but it was restored the next morning with a fresh coating of snow on the mountains including over the Kepler Track, by now far above us.

The Wild West Coast

Motukiekie Beach

The west coast lived up to its reputation most of the time for us with rain, drizzle and wind but we managed to get good weather in the right places.  We headed south down the coast visiting lots of old gold mining areas because we can’t resist all those tunnels. The first one was one of the best, the Charming Creek walkway, which followed an old rail line that had been build through a wild gorge. We had tunnels, old machinery and to cap it off a superb waterfall.

We timed our visit to Pancake Rocks with high tide and they performed for us in the rough seas. We followed a walk up a canyon and visited some of the local sights – Truman track leading to a colourful curved cliff and a huge sea cave that used to be used by the maoris. We revisited Pancake Rocks at low tide in better weather but not performing well.

Porari River

Truman track

Maori sea cave

At high tide

At low tide

The wild  weather causes the sea to create lots  of foam which is rich in nutrients but also is fascinating to watch as it gloops its way onto the shore and flubs over rocks. Another pretty waterfall and then a visit to a secret beach as recommended by our guidebook and only able to be accessed at low tide. It gave us lots of sea stacks, holes in rocks and arches and as the tide retreated, rock shelves covered with huge mussels and clusters of starfish.

More gold mining tunnels, tailraces dug out by hand that were 10 metres deep and a recreated site where NZ’s worst mining disaster occurred with the loss of 67 lives in 1896. We visited Hokitika where their sign was looking a little lopsided. It is the home of jade (greenstone) carvers on the coast and we took a tour but only saw someone putting holes in pieces. It also shares its name with the river which slowly flows through a gorge giving it a chance to show off its amazing turquoise colour even in the rain. The rain also caused Dorothy Falls to thunder though they quickly dropped overnight with no rain.

We finally had good weather in the morning when we were at Franz Josef glacier so we quickly made us dash to Lake Matheson to catch the almost perfect reflections. The clouds started coming over again soon after as we visited the two glaciers. We found the less visited Fox glacier much more impressive as we got closer to the snout and didn’t have those annoying helicopters flying overhead delivering tourists to their glacier walk.

Lake Matheson

Franz Josef glacier

Franz Josef glacier

Fox Glacier

Fox Glacier

Fox Glacier

Fox Glacier

Fox Glacier

Gillespies Beach is a free campsite with a view of the mountains that is apparently packed in summer. We didn’t have the crowds but we only got glimpses of the mountains until we were driving out the next morning.

Gillespies Beach

Everyone went to the beach to watch the sunset

Mt La Perouse

After watching the whitebait fishermen (and women) all down the coast we finally stopped to try some. There is only a ten week season to catch them and lots of people spend the whole time fishing. Lots sell their catch (for $100 kg) and others freeze it to feast on during the year. Some have permanent shacks and structures to put out their nets and have to pay an annual fee while those who walk the rivers with their nets do it for free. We bought our pattie from an authentic shed on the river bank made with whitebait caught the previous day. They mix the fish with egg and fry it and serve it on white bread. We added some salt, pepper and lemon and were surprised to find it had a very subtle fishy flavour as we were expecting something much stronger. We are glad we tried but won’t go out of our way to have more.

Whitebait

We left the west coast via the Haast Pass which brought back memories of our last trip through after 200mm of rain fell overnight at Fox Glacier. On that occasion the river filled the banks while this time it was a narrow band of water with large shingle beds. We camped on the way through with the sand flies and explored some extra side canyons.

Thunder Ck Falls

Thunder Ck Falls 2004

Fantail Falls

Fantail Falls 2004

Gates of Haast

Gates of Haast 2004

Mountains from Pleasant Flat

Mountains from Pleasant Flat

Robinson CK

Wilson Ck

Blue Pool

Heaphy Track and Karamea

With a good forecast (our usual criteria for setting off on a walk) we got ourselves organized to walk the Heaphy Track. The selling point for this track is that it is varied and it certainly lived up to that with each day having a different setting. The hardest part with the Heaphy (and the part that Ray didn’t like) is that it is 460km by road from one end to the other. Ray nearly opted out and said he’d drive around and collect me but he thought I might fall over and hurt myself! We found the option that suited us best was to pay a local service that would drive your car to the other end and this ended up working very well for us. We had to take five days instead of four to fit in with another group and this also worked as our extra night was at our favourite hut and setting as featured above on the frosty morning. The first day was a very steady climb to Perry Saddle Hut and in fact the whole track was always at a very easy gradient as it was originally surveyed for a road. We got a shock with a couple of minor steep pinches on the last day as we were used to the easy hills. We were surprised by warning signs for snails but they were to protect the snails not us. We did see one but it wasn’t a giant one as some grow to a shell the size of a fist.

Day two saw us out of the trees and into the downs, high areas of grassland though not alpine. It reminded me of our high country and was very picturesque. A boot tree was a feature of the day with slippers and old boots with the nailed on soles. We ended at Saxon Hut where a visit from a helicopter (three times) enlivened the peaceful afternoon. Unfortunately there are reports of a missing helicopter in the area this week and I’m afraid it might be this one.

Our frosty morning was warmed by the morning sun as we strolled on to the next hut which was perched on the edges of the hills looking down to our next destination, the Heaphy river mouth.

We set off down hill through a pretty forest to meet the Heaphy and the next sandfly surrounded hut. The bridge across the river was very impressive and led us into a different world. The walk by the river took us through a nikau palm forest that gave it a tropical feel though the weather didn’t back it up. We ended at the Heaphy hut, yet another brand new hut with all the mod cons – bunks with mattresses, gas fires and solar powered lights. This was set overlooking the beach at the mouth of the river and we made it just in time to beat the afternoon rain.

Heaphy river

Heaphy river bridge

Large Rata

Nikau palm forest

Heaphy hut

The last day promised rain but it had all fallen previously and all we saw were showers. It made for a lovely walk along the coast through nikau forest, across beaches with warnings against waves ( we were not at high tide when three people were washed away in 1980), swing bridges over raging torrents and one last hill to keep us on our toes. The final swingbridge gave us a rollercoaster ride and swayed alarmingly in the wind that was channelled up the river valley but finally we were reunited with our car with a bonus apple.

We were now in the Karamea area on the west coast, an area that has been bypassed by the tourists as it it on a 100 km dead end road. We made the most of being in the area by visiting it’s fantastic limestone arches. It had hailed during the night and as we headed up the road in the morning there was more and more hail on the road until it looked like snow. The van almost made it to the top but slipped on the last hill and we were stuck. Ray tried to back to a safe place to leave the car but it ended up on a soft spot off the road. After I walked and ran back down the hill I found a helpful 4WD driver who pulled us back on the road with ease. By now the hail was slushier and easier to drive on but we were taking no chances and turned the van before parking and walking the last three km to the walks.

We walked to Oparara Arch and were amazed at the size of it. The river runs through and it is a huge cavernous space where we had to bypass the ‘Do not pass this point’ sign to explore and try to capture in photography. The rain had caused numerous drips and even a waterfall through a hole in the roof.

We then completed a loop walk past Mirror Tarn and over and under Moria Gate Arch, a much smaller but pretty arch.

 

Marlborough Sounds to Golden Bay

We juggled our travels to walk a couple of days on the Queen Charlotte walkway in brilliant sunshine and of course ended up setting off in the rain. We caught a boat out to the start and had the bonus of a pod of dusky dolphins fishing on the way. We set off up the hill with all the views shrouded by rain and ourselves getting wetter and wetter. It was a case of keep on walking to the campsite for a late lunch and watch the weather clear and draw us back to the lookout we had bypassed.

Eatwell Lookout

Bay of Many Coves

The sun shone for us the next day and we got the promised views of blue water in the many inlets. The track was very easy as it sidled round every hill but gave us numerous viewpoints. Our boat ride came early and we could relax back at the van.

Sunrise over Bay of Many Coves

Kenepuru Sound

Our next destination was off the tourist route in the Marlborough Sounds as we headed out to French Pass where the tide raced through a gap between an island and the mainland. The drive was super scenic with views down to various bays and inlets and finishing on a ridge top overlooking green folded farmland. The sunrise overlooking the boats in the bay was superb.

We were heading for Abel Tasman NP to do part of another Great Walk (the less popular northern end) and visited some of the local sights along the way. We saw two springs – one of which emerged from a hole in the hill and one which bubbled up in an enormous blue pool. Another walk took us to Harwoods Hole, an enormous limestone cavern entrance. As we passed one farm the cows were walking themselves back to their paddock after milking. They have well trained animals in NZ – we saw dogs moving sheep by themselves in the North Island.

Te Waikoropupu Springs

Riwaka resurgance

Harwoods Hole

Gorge Creek viewpoint

Cows putting themselves away

We walked over the hill to a hut that was an old farmhouse and very picturesque. We then returned around the coast to get the fabled views of golden sand and blue water in the sunshine.
Back at camp at Totaranui we fought the vicious sand flies to enjoy the coastal scenery but weren’t tempted to swim by the icy water. The locals are all out en masse to catch whitebait, a local delicacy. We were surprised at how tiny they were. If they caught a cup full they thought they were doing well.

Wainui Bay

Wharirika Hut

Wharirika Bay

Californian quail

Mussel Cove

Anapai Bay

Totaranui Bay

Whitebait

The next day was a smorgasbord of limestone features. First up was the scenic Wainui Falls, followed by a The Grove, an area of huge jumbled limestone blocks covered with vegetation and roots reaching down the ground. The final spectacle was a huge cavern mouth festooned with millions of stalactites decorated with moss and algae.

Wainui Falls

The Grove

The Grove

Rawhiti Cave

Rawhiti Cave

Rawhiti Cave

Rawhiti Cave

The west coast was beckoning in the lovely weather where we managed to collect the right tide and sunset at Whaririki Beach. We explored the tunnels, admired the frolicking seal pups in the pools and captured the setting sun over the famed Archway Islands.

The sights to be seen were amongst the sheep studded farmland including Cape Farewell and Farewell Spit. There were lambs everywhere, often twins, and some very young newborns.

Cape Farewell

Farewell Spit

Protective mum

We drove along a scenic back road that took us along the shores of Whanganui Inlet. It was full of bays with the road crossing on causeways as the water pours through pipes and bridges as the tide rises and falls. We returned the next day at a different timing of the tide to see a very different picture. Lots of fishers of whitebait were camped down this road – it’s a big kiwi pastime.